Mine is a 99 Nissan Sentra and to be honest, these cars just are not made for large American hands, in such tiny places. Once that's done, move the transmission into position and, here comes the fun part, lift it up and into position. You'll also notice your clutch pedal moving up, inside the car. You might need to hammer the alternator from underneath, sometimes they are really tight. Tighten it on to shorten the length, and once it's far enough that it's becoming difficult to go further, tighten the nut down. A few minutes of filing off some material off the bottom of the boss provided the clearance required to no longer contact the tensioner bolt. Needed materials: socket set in metric 8mm to 16mm , jack, jack stands, a new starter 1 Place the car on jack stands.
That alternator is really hard to get to. If you have the clutch disc positioned properly, it should slide right in when the splines mesh. An idiot proof way … to find the starteris to follow the ground wire from the negative side of the batteryto the starter. Once this is done, put the cable in the proper brackets, on the fenderwell and transmission, place the bracket on the tranny clutch lever it has a slot too and get starwheel back started on the threaded end of the cable assembly. Now unhook the fork at the other end of the cable from the pedal I 'skipped' this step because my cable had broken.
I've heard it said, that normally there is an inch or less of exposed threads facing the radiator at the starwheel. In my search of the net, and the limited amount I could find. Reach over and behind that is, toward the rest of the car the hose and pull on the cable. There's a rubber stopper that goes into this metal housing, and if you pull that out the cable should come right out. One bracket bolts to the tranny itself and there is a grommet on the cable assembly that goes into the bracket.
Keep going until the bolts are tight, 22 foot pounds. His odometer and spedometer did not work at all. It helps to take a small rubber band and wrap it around several times at the very end of the cable to hold the fork that hooks on to the clutch pedal in place. Once again it will be frustrating and tricky to hook the fork onto the pedal. Insure the replacement clutch parts are identical to the old ones.
Advance Auto Parts has 7 different Clutch Cable for your vehicle, ready for shipping or in-store pick up. I went to a fastener store, bought a 40 mm long M10 bolt and thought I was in business, until realizing that the same thicker boss was also contacting the threads of the tensioner rod. You won't be able to see anything, so you'll have to go by feel for all this. You might have to pop the pressure plate loose before you remove all the bolts. I didn't realize this and removed the fork after part 1, but that's unnecessary though not difficult.
It is very tight quarters in there. I'm not sure how applicable this will be to other makes or models, I doubt there's much variation though beyond accessibility and locations of parts. Once the rubber stopper on the cable is free from the bracket, the cable can be pulled to the right out of the bracket, as it has a small notch. I left the rad hose as- … is. Apply some white lithium grease to the shaft the bearing rides on, the ball and pivot for the clutch fork, the area the clutch fork rides on the throwout bearing and the splines of the input shaft.
Once the cable's in place, adjust the cable length by turning the large knob on the clutch end of the cable. You should be able to reach the fork with your index and middle fingers. You'll have to put the firewall bracket onto your new cable assembly! This leaves the rest of the cable assembly. This leaves the rest of the cable assembly. The best probably only way to access this is to kind of reach over the pedal bracket on the left away from the other pedals side.
Once this is done, you are almost home. Several inches down from this lever, the cable goes through an bracket connected to the engine. I had to remove the starwheel from the other end of the cable. I just changed the alternator on a '96 Sentra - day one involved removal of old alternator - passenger side fan and overflow tank had to be removed. The cable routes between some thin metal tubes I think they're part of the brake system since they're near the reservoir , and is held in place by a little bracket that it will pop out from.
This is tricky to describe, and quite frustrating if you have short or overly thick fingers. It is held in by three 12mm bolts. It will get to the point where you can't turn it starwheel with your fingers anymore. Several inches down from this lever, the cable goes through an bracket connected to the engine. Here is a list of the tools you will need. I went to a fastener store, bought a 40 mm long M10 bolt and thought I was in business, until realizing that the same thicker boss was also contacting the threads of the tensioner rod.