I dried out all of the cylinders with a clean rag and used a screwdriver wrapped in a rag to clean out the head bolt threaded holes. The best setup is to adjust the intake cam to 5 degrees advanced and leave the exhaust cam alone. The forged steel connecting rods have been developed specifically for M42 use. Although I have never broken a camshaft, I would guess that they would break much easier than they would bend, due to the hollow geometry combined with the metal hardening processes. Further assembly is basically the reverse of the dismantling procedure. Remove the 2 bolts holding the fuel rail.
Align the intake manifold to the studs and let it slide in place. Remove the three valve cover studs on the end of the cylinder head. The internal gear engine oil pump is now directly driven from the crankshaft without a chain. Just clamp wood along the top of the beraing journals, secured around head, with another piece of wood at the bottom prtecting the cylindfer head. With the tool applying uniform pressure and force to each of the cam bearing caps very important , you can release the rods slowly and let the camshaft rise off of the lower cam bearing surfaces. If necessary, remove and install a new oil seal with special tool 11 1 260, staffed with special tool 00 5 500.
These will all be replaced. September 9, 2009 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback and additional information. Takes a little longer - but less risk. After many hours of pondering, and thinking, I began to wonder exactly how many valves had to be held open in order for the camshaft to not have any load placed on it. Remove all the bearing caps for all cylinders 1-6 by turning each nut counter-clockwise a quarter turn, turning each and every nut only one quarter turn before continuing. Apr 06, 2009 to do it correctly you need a tension gauge, however it is possible without. Transmitted through the lifters, the springs place a tremendous amount of force on the camshaft.
Is this a problem with my installation of the cams or is it possible the shop I took it to messed something up during the valve job? Release the vise and it should measure 68. During 100% of this time, there is at least one pair of camshaft lobes pressing down on valve lifters and compressing a pair of valve springs. If it sounds like I'm boasting right now - it's because I am - just about everyone I spoke with said not to try it. If not, it looks like this 10 3 1 5 7 8 6 2 4 9 You first just snug the bolts in that order, then using a torque wrench, tighten in sequence at 30Nm or 22ft-lbs. I pulled the belts, and pulleys.
I did the job over 5 days working 2 or 3 hours a day. This would probably be the worst-case scenario. The nuts tighten in sequence from the center out. Unfortunately without these tools re-timing the camshafts after a valve job is almost impossible. September 28, 2011 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback, glad to help.
Surely there would be timing implications? You can turn the crank a little or use an adjustable wrench to wiggle the cams and get your marks in alignment, the cam gear arrows should be pointing up as well. Remove the radiator fan shroud. Tighten lower intake manifold to head. The camshaft housings locate the camshafts and the self-adjusting hydraulic tappets. This method was devised to avoid any misalignment, resulting in piston to valve damage. The cylinder head cover provides ease of service and effective noise reduction. These 2 links have to be aligned with the marks on the sprockets before refitting the sprockets to the shafts.
I'm getting ready to do this on a e36 M50 that has a blown head gasket. Once this is done, you can leak test the cylinders to check for damage You will want to temporarily install a timing belt to use when rotating the engine once it is timed. If the head is stuck, check to see that you have all of the bolts out, Check twice. Loosen the screws on oil sump. The crank would have cycles where it was stiff to turn, then immediately following this, very easy to turn.
But when reinstalling, you put them back in the position you removed them from. Performing this large amount of work, I decided that it would be in my best interest to have a complete valve job performed on the cylinder head at the same time. It is possible the camshaft was part of the original issue, but not bad enough to notice. Grab the head by the inside of the thermostat hole and at the rear of the head and tug. Refer to the photos on the right for location, then remove the plug.