Flushed it out 3 times over the last few months and still no heat. Start by removing the little sail piece at the top near the mirror. Sometimes even with water in the system and a working thermostat, you can still get no heat; the flow of water in the heating-and-cooling system may be blocked by air or dirt. I changed thermostat, flushed heater core and it started putting out warm heat enough to get thru winter. If you're noticing you're starting to get heat after driving a while this would also indicate the thermostat is broken. The centre dial of your heater control located in the centre console can fail.
If the nice warm heat doesn't last very long, this is because you're drawing the heat away from the circulated water. I would guess that they have a green Motorcraft label on the top of each one. Once the actuator is removed you can manually open the gate by turning the gear the actuator is attached to. This winter the heat was working until one morning I went to warm up the car, and I always keep everything off and set to cold until the car is warmed up. Make sure you dump out the old coolant at the lowest point possible: the left-hand side of the radiator at the bottom. If you still have no joy, you'll need to take your car to a garage and ask them to pressure-fill your coolant.
He changed the thermostat with oem thermostat. The Actuator Fix By checking this first, you'll save yourself a lot of time taking things off. Outside temp got above 0 one morning. Yet previously I had put in antifreeze. Nasty as all get out, in these minus -15°'s and that's in the day. Its probably stuck or broken, allowing the cold air from outside to come in instead of the heat from the heater core.
You need to be sure that the heater core is really the problem before tackling this job. I would appreciate any help please. On the passenger side, the back two are tough, but if you take off the brackets where the battery wires connect to 4 - 8mm bolts and slide the two harneses off of the brackets, you can do it. Can you get hot air to blow thru the back vents in the truck? It is slightly warmer than cold and the temp guage is reading normal. If they are getting flow and coolant level is ok, then you may have an air pocket in the cooling system, these have a bleeder on the t-stat housing to allow you to bleed the air out of the cooling system.
You can do this by lifting the bonnet the hood and looking at the header tank, which collects overflow coolant from the radiator. Your heater uses the heat from the coolant circulating around the engine. In either case, there is a chance of a cheap or do-it-yourself fix, as shown in the video below. When I switch to hot on the dash, I get warm air for a few seconds, and then it blows barely room-temperature air. Consider replacing an old water pump as part of routine maintenance, along with the replacement of the cam belt and accessory belts, if you have an old car and want to keep it a few years. Remove the instrument panel dashboard from the vehicle.
If the system seems to work intermittently, it's a good indication that the door is broken and rattling around randomly blocking or opening the passage to the core. The valve turns or not. I have a 99 expedition 5. The vents and hot air is caused my a cold air mixture door motor gone bad, it's very common. I'm temp gauge works great I had replaced the radiator cap not long ago and my fuel cap because my check engine light was on saying there was two leaks I cleared the codes after I fixed both and check engine light hasn't come back on. It use to work months ago on every setting but always made a really loud noise when on until it only worked on high still make a kinda loud sound. Didn't drive it to work that day.
You can check the flow by seeing how hot the heater hoses are. Please post in your browser if it does highlight and confirm the door position. It is positioned a little higher than the radiator, usually to one side or the other of the engine, directly above a wheel. See if this helps you narrow things down. If your engine is stock I would stick with the factory recommendation. This is why your header tank will go brown. On the back side of the fuse cover, there should be a table of what fuse does what.
The heater core is difficult to change on the Ford trucks. You can also remove the hoses and flush the core with a water hose splice from Home Depot and a water hose. This should be a simple job for them and shouldn't cost too much. Now that the cold weather is back, we'll be whacking the car's heater on the second we turn the key. Recently I heard watery sound when I stared engin top up cooling it's stopt.
Be prepared to turn the fan off almost instantly. Once you turn it anti-clockwise, you should hear a hiss; this is the air being released. If you can look at the injectors, you will see so … mething about 1. This opens and shuts the gate behind the dash to determine how much hot or cold air goes into the system. Once these plug off a flush may only give you a temporary fix before they plug up again like you're seeing. A little test you can do is leave the can running, stationary at home and take a look at your temperature gauge that should be in your dash.
An engine that keeps losing water is a big problem, and not just because low water levels will keep your heater from putting out enough heat. With the key on see if the shaft turns when you change the temp knob. The pump is not leaking or making noise. I heard clicking noise under dashboard been fixed. I used irontite to fix it. I need to proceed quickly since she was using my 2004 expedition until Monday Night when she got hit by a drunk driver. Aug 19, 2014 No hot air is due to low coolant, or even poor coolant flow.