Replacing a set can be very expensive. Connect the hydraulic lines to the cylinder. Have you tried to have a diagnostic test done? I cover this information in my upcoming book Automotive Driveablity: A Guide to Engine Performance Diagnosis. This is definitely not the place to start. Well then I guess their problem isn't bad enough or worthy of his time to justify creating their own thread to talk about it. Install the clevis pin and hair pin clip at the top end of the cylinder.
Here is where it gets interesting though. You can see the two electrodes are touching. Now up for sale she goes You would of been done alot sooner as well as cheaper if you changed the plugs from the start. It is thought that the newer head is better designed. There are several reasons for this particular malfunction, including a fault on the secondary ignition system, a bad ignition coil or a bad oxygen sensor. Thinking I solved the problem, I bought a new set of wires and put them on.
Engine Mechanical Condition: The pistons and valves are the ones that draw air into the engine. Replacing that helped my misfire some, but it was still misfiring some, but not as often. Fortunately the 2 plug wire is somewhat easy to get at and was able to get my hand down there to pull it off. If the spark plugs appear like they've been in the truck for quite some time you might want to change them out with new plugs. History Customer brought this one in, he had replaced the plugs and wires as general maintenance no codes or complaints before the work. I took it to a mechanic for a 2nd opinion, and he said it still looked good and was not bent as well. I am now down to pulling my hair out, I had another mechanic tell me that the Hydraulic lifter could have been damaged when he ran it out of gas and it toss the Push rod! To make the long story short, those cylinders with accelerated wear and tear to produce a less than average compression value that will cause a misfire condition.
On average, you should read about 15,000 ohms per foot of wire. Go ahead and replace them or have them tested. This is a 1998 Ford Ranger V6 4. He changed the sensor to tell when the Fuel inject should fire. If you do get +12V at each injector plug, I'd start by checking resistance at injector 4 and for good measure, I'd look at each one. Turn on the engine and let it idle.
Are you getting adequate fuel pressure at the rail? Operate the top to the fully raised position. I'm glad to hear you got it fixed. P0304 is a relatively common trouble code with any vehicle, that includes the Ford Ranger. First read instructions, attach the valve assembly to the valve you checked your freon from. Are they next to each other on the engine? Install the quarter trim panels and the rear seat back and cushion. Too bad you didn't post what plug 4 and for that matter, what any of the spark plugs look like, that's a very important gauge of engine health that has now gone out with the trash. I think what I need to do is see if I can get a loan a tool scanner and vacuum guage.
We were looking for a cheap fix because at the time we hadn't bought it yet. Check the plug for oil deposits or ashes that might indicate oil leaks into the cylinder or poor fuel quality. And dropped when pressure released. Maybe there's enough carbon on the valves that it's acting as a sponge for the fuel or restricting flow in and out of one or more cylinders. I checked the push rod and it was still strait had no damage and did not look wore.
If you find any replace the ignition wires. I have pulled all the plugs, they are nice and tan, re-gapped them although they were only. The mechanics keep saying that it has something to do with the fuel cap and pressure or something. I don't know if it was there before or not because only my siblings drove it, and their not exactly observant. Common problem with some but not all younger people in America today, in fact, we have a description for it.
He changed spark plugs, and a few more Fuel injections themselves. True, the top-loader is the pinnacle of trans strength. After that you would want to test the fuel injection system. What could be causing this the truck seems fine when Im not driving faster than 60? From what I read, your problem is in one cylinder, thus anything common to all cylinders will more than likely be the issue. A T-10 has different shift rods than a top loader, and people frequently accept 'close enough' on the shift rods fit down there, especially if they are also running a Hurst shifter instead of the original Ford unit. Head Variations: There are several variations on the 2. It depends on how serious the misfire is.
An engine misfire condition occurs when one or more engine cylinders on are not producing power. Not gonna buy new plugs unless that is the problem, becuase like I said this vehicle is getting sold immediately upon running right so I want to spend as little as possible. If this would not fix the problem you should check for any vacuum hose leak. Have you tried to have a diagnostic test done? Don't puy parts until you have confirmed that you need them, it's a waste of time and it eats at the wallet. Check for damaged insulation like burns and cuts. Hooked up an adjustable spark tester to confirm and what do you know.
A little bit of testing Did a quick relative compression test and it looked pretty good. So when I got the codes read at Advance Auto Parts, I got a P0305 and a P1000 code. The part numbers are theirs and are Sealed Power numbers. Installation is easy, it only requires a small Torx bit and takes about 10 minutes. That being said, the plugs are a great place to start. Start your car, turn ac on high and turn to coldest setting. If the one from cylinder 5 looks different, how does it look different? In an effort to isolate the bad cylinder, thinking maybe it was actually a plug, I started pulling wires off the coil with it running.