Idler Arms and Pitman Arms are part of your steering system that links your steering box to the center link, and then on to the hub assemblies. Use a cutoff wheel to cut a slot in the pitman arm, as deep as possible without hitting the splines, then using a chisel, crack the pitman arm, and it should fall right off. If not it's just going to fall out. The pitman arm has to pulled off with an pitman arm puller also have to drop steering box I believe to change it. As you can see we removed the tire over here and this is a joint fork. Install the Pitman on the steering shaft making sure to line up the splines and at the same time insert the tapered bolt in the centerlink. I used a 15mm combination wrench on one of them, then the other had a clamp and i undid and pulled the tubing off.
You will notice that there are 4 flat spots that match up with the splines on the steering box. Ive had more than a few sets of tires ruined because I was too lazy to change parts I knew were starting to go. It doesn't really add up to me, since I'm not having any sloppy steering issues. There's the power break booster and this right down here is your steering box. Anyways, here's the deal: replace them now or later? Once you remove the bolt then you want to take a large screwdriver or a pry bar and put it down in there and just make sure that you can move the steering shaft away from the steering box and if you watch you can see that the shaft is moving from the steering box pretty easily.
Didn't have to disconnect the steering shaft or any power steering lines. Mine was just a 15mm nut. This nut should be a 21mm. Submitted 2018-03-09 By Daniel From undisclosed Installed on a 1998 Chevy Blazer 4x4. When they brought me back in the shop, I did see how loose they were, but wouldn't everything have some play in it, since the truck was on the jack? I would do it yourself if you have an air compressor Click to expand. I was able to change mine, by removing 2 of the 3 bolts holding the box on, and rotate it down just a bit, giving enough room to get the pitman arm puller on.
Sometimes only one is bad, but many people say that of them is easy, good insurance, and doesn't cost much more because the labor is essentially free since you already have to take everything apart to replace one or the other. Now we're going to remove the steering box to get to the Pitman arm. Use a cutoff wheel to cut a slot in the pitman arm, as deep as possible without hitting the splines, then using a chisel, crack the pitman arm, and it should fall right off. Now we get to the three bolts that hold your steering box on and I just used a little screwdriver kind of bend this fender up a little bit because it was in the way and you can just tap it back down with a hammer when you're done. Now, you're going to want to use your Pitman arm puller. If your steering has gotten sloppy they may need replacement.
It's a little difficult to see. If you try to just straight pull it with the puller, it won't budge sometimes, a good whack with the hammer while you are using the puller will knock it loose. The pitman arm has to pulled off with an pitman arm puller also have to drop steering box I believe to change it. Loose is never good when you're talking about steering. Put the tool on like that and then put your wrench on there and then pull and it breaks it right free. Bottom Line Installed on a 1998 Chevy Blazer 4x4. There's the power break booster and this right down here is your steering box.
. My truck drives like new now, and the parts were reasonably priced, at a savings over competitive vendors. Here's where having an impact wrench is going to be really valuable. Then finally beating the hell out of it till it finally came off. Likely someone makes an install tool. However there is a trick to it.
Then, make sure you have a catch pan underneath to catch the fluid as it starts leaking out. I don't like trusting other people with my truck when I don't have to. I was able to change mine, by removing 2 of the 3 bolts holding the box on, and rotate it down just a bit, giving enough room to get the pitman arm puller on. So, it's a 21-mm bolt. They didn't find any loose front end parts, but they didn't get the steering on-center when they did the job. Remove the cotter pin from the end at the center link, use the tie rod seperator to seperate the joint there.
Aug 10, 2010 You will need the proper tools to remove them which can be rented at auto parts stores. There's no way I'd trust those nincompoops with a job like that, and I plan on doing it myself. Here's your transfer to here and then up right there is the joint of your Pitman arm. So, we're going to bring it in from the side here and then use a good hammer. You just kind of peel that off and pull this plastic shield back and now you're going to want to use some penetrating oil and douse both your fittings, one here and then one a little further up. Are they being truthful, or are they living up to their two-star Google review? If you don't have an impact you can just turn it on all the way and then use a large bar. Anyways, here's the deal: replace them now or later? Last, there are 3 bolts in the frame that you will have access to in the fender.