I have just cleaned almost every electrical connection that I can find that is related to sensors under the hood. Today it did this to me at a stop light, and the battery and engine light both came on and I got a weird buzzing sound for a moment, then it came back. The higher the octane you are willing to buy, the more timing advance you will be able to run. For the brief period that it does run, it runs flawlessly. It had an intermittent fault, that was hard to diagnose. The point is, don't do a compression check without either pulling the connectors from the coils or keeping a spark plug in the wire while turning over the engine.
The factory ignition wires on the Miata only seem to last between 30,000 and 50,000 miles. If you have modified your intake tract, your Miata may require higher octane fuel than 87. The bad noise from the engine is probably serious knock from the lean fuel. Here is a brief description of my failure symptoms. Turn key, engine starts, rpms rise, then car dies within a couple of seconds. Intermittent problems are the hardest to fix. A slipping alternator belt can cause all kinds of problems.
That is the code for the idle speed control valve. Thanks No not alway's as a coil can work fine when it cold then when it gets hot it will start to fail not uncomin. After the engine is run in traffic, it is set to a pretty lean setting O2 sensor reading close to. I already changed the coilpack, my injectors are new. Any chance that if the alternator belt is slipping, the plugs aren't getting enough juice to spark? What may be of interest is that the two left hand coolant ports are not isolated from one another.
Put some gas treatment in to make sure it isn't water in the gas now that it's getting cold out and condensation is getting in the tank. What is a short trip classified as? Jim Tully Q: Hey guys. If the heat range is too high longer insulator the plug itself can begin to overheat causing detonation of the fuel-air mixture. It is possible to remove the front end of this tube near the throttle body and seal the black molded plastic intake air chamber port with a cork. Consequently, they tend to tolerate the occasional overrev better than their reciprocating cousins. I've not heard of one that is real good and then real bad and then real good again.
There is surely a factory pre-set tension applied to the return spring. Only thing I can detect might be a weak clutch. You can search the net or contact dealers for new parts. Regards, Mike Charles Kelly wrote in message. A plugged up fuel filter might cause your problem, and coupled with a leaking injector, might cause fuel to be present in the intake manifold, allowing the engine to run rough for a few moments. I assumed that this was the problem, and moved the wires so they wouldn't touch.
There should be a fuse for the radiator fan. Jump the ground and ten terminals on the diagnostic port and count the long and short blinks of the check engine light with the ignition on. The engine dies after running smoothly immediately after, even if I keep the starter turning. I have had all generations and now own the 1994 car and was told by my mechanic that the latest version is the worst. First after engine warms up and has been running fine, the check engine light comes on, then idle goes up from 800 to 1800 then upon engaging any gear and trying to accellerate, car stumbles and breaks up until up to speed, then problem goes away for a while. Stop the engine, pause about 10 seconds then start the engine again and note the 4th tachometer value. Now redo the idle check outlined above.
Do those symptoms rough start when warm, stalling point to a sensor issue, maybe? While its off, check the keyway on the crank nose. However, a loose wire could do similar things. Confirm the Butterfly is not sticking and is fully closed at rest. In parting, I've owned 4 Miatas. Quoted Text Here I'll try tonight. As spark plugs wear, the gap between the electrodes tends to get a bit wider. Advancing the timing to compensate will have just advanced his timing - period.
Fuel is nice and stable. I was about to move the car to the new house when this happened. On October 15, I will take my 99 Miata to the dealership for the 3rd time, after which I will invoke the Lemon Law for the State of Florida. One other point of interest. Didn't start until about 2 hours later. When he finished spinning both feet in! In parting, I've owned 4 Miatas. Quoted Text Here The engine only ran rough until I noticed the toughing plug wires, and it kept running.
On all rotaries, smoking through the exhaust during deceleration shows the oil consumption rings are going bad. Here is what I have done. A slipping alternator belt can cause all kinds of problems. Warning on Compression Checks We received this message from Ryan Ruston: I recently had a bad experience with the coil packs on my 1995 Miata. Both had problems with the idle. It then becomes necessary to use some sort of clever tool to retrieve the washer. There is one bolt with a twelve mm head on it that is the hold-down.